Friday, December 15, 2006

Fatty Crab

Fatty Crab is a name that you don’t want to take lightly. It’s your first signal that this is not a restaurant for the timid. Here is a place for serious eaters and anyone who loves pork.

This Malaysian inspired menu by Zak Pelaccio is inspiring, authentic, and seductive. The appetizers are great for sharing but I would gladly make a meal out of them alone. The Jalan Alor Chicken Wings are sumptuous, but my absolute favorite dish is the Pork Steamed buns. Nestled inside a light bun is a thick wedge of poached pork that is so tender and rich that it takes the pork bun to a whole new level. I was full after eating just one which is only a minor (and temporary) drawback . The watermelon pickle and crispy pork salad was very tasty as well. Chunks of fresh watermelon with chunky pork lardons are a surprising and happy pairing.

As a main course we ordered the Nasi Lemak, coconut rice, chicken curry, and a slow poached egg in which the distinctive flavors all harmonize brilliantly. Total comfort food. Steamed baby bok choy with a light soy dressing came as a lovely relief.

The wine list is short, sweet and well edited for the food. I ordered the 2005 Gruner Veltliner Gran Cru from Steininger. The acidity cut through the spices and flavors of the dishes with total clarity and complemented the food beautifully.

I love this place even though I can’t imagine eating there regularly. As we left the restaurant, my friend and I both felt totally satisfied and happy. We wanted to walk, (about 5 miles) to work off the dinner but jumped in a cab instead and called it a night.

Fatty Crab
643 Hudson St


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